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Do you know the difference between a humidifier and a softener? And which raw materials fall into which category? Not sure? Then this topic is for you ;-)

Probably the most important goal we want to achieve with natural cosmetics is beautiful, radiant, silky and hydrated skin.

How can moisturisers and emollients help us achieve this? :-)

Today we start with moisturisers.

These substances are (not only in the cosmetic world) also called humectants.

A humectant attracts and retains moisture from the air and absorbs it (drying products, on the other hand, attract water but do not absorb it and form a film on the surface through condensation). This general theory is not too far from the truth in actual cosmetic practice. Except that the humectants in cosmetic products do not draw water preferentially from the air, but from the deeper layers of the skin in order to moisturise the surface.

However, what happens if regular use pulls water "from below"?

This question is more than spot on. When the wrong humectants are used, this does indeed happen over time, and the result is precisely the stripping of hydration from the lower layers of the skin, drying it out and "bending" it, which causing the very wrinkles that you wanted to avoid in the first place by using a moisturiser, or even if you started using a humectant just to combat the wrinkles that have developed.

How do you choose the right moisturizer for your formulations?

Whether you want to make your own product using a moisturizer or you are just a "consumer" of natural cosmetics, it is important toit is important to know which humectants are beneficial for your skin.

Synthetic humectants

This is where the dog is buried ☝ Synthetic humectants are cheaper than natural ones, which is why cosmetic manufacturers like to use them so much. However, their initial WAU effect of moisturised skin will eventually be replaced by damaged and dry skin. These humectants draw water from deeper layers, and although they prevent water loss to a certain extent, they ultimately do not supply any nutrients to the skin, which is why skin ageing and sagging occurs over time.

Let's take a few examples of synthetic moisturisers:

???? PROPYLENE GLYCOL

A water-based product that can retain moisture but also dries out the lower layers of the skin and in certain cases can irritate sensitive skin and cause rashes and redness.

???? PEG

We wrote about polyethylene glycols - petroleum-based compounds used in cosmetic products - in detail in our Facebook article.

???? S ILICONS

They are present in perhaps all products, just for the effect of soft and smooth skin, but they also prevent "breathing" of the skin and over time can result in dry and irritated skin with possible acne.

Natural moisturisers

Natural moisturizers not only help to draw water to the surface of the skin, but they also deliver hydration and nutrients to the deeper layers, which helps the skin to moisturize regularly.

Which are natural moisturizers?

???? A LOE

Whether in the form of juice, prepared gel or the fresh gelled part of the plant itself, it penetrates deeply and quickly into the skin, hydrating it at the surface and lower levels.

???? HONEY

Honey has the natural ability to retain water and hydrate without creating a greasy feeling.

???? HYALURONIC ACID

We covered hyaluronic acid in a separate post:

https://www.facebook.com/…/a.47809421237…/1084599688395803/…

It has a natural ability to retain water and can act according to moisture levels (low molecular, medium molecular and high molecular).

???? GLYCERINE

It occurs naturally in every living cell, so it is easily absorbed by the skin. It can hold water really well and works by finding a balance between the water content in the air and in the skin. Plus, glycerin's texture is perfect for skin care because it glides on smoothly and evenly.

So what's thefundamental difference between moisturisers and emollients?

While moisturisers are designed to 'attract' moisture, emollients create a protective film to trap it - so they primarily prevent water loss. They are also called emollients and are applied topically to the skin to soothe, hydrate, heal and protect the skin cells that are affected by various skin problems such as redness, burning, itching, irritation, scaling. They are also used to alleviate longer term skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema or ichthyosis.

Examples of products include:

???? BODY MILKS AND WATERS
These products are an excellent choice for providing hydration to large areas, whether hair, skin or the whole body. The negative aspect is that they do not provide extra moisturization to the skin.

???? CREAMS
An excellent choice for daily hydration, suitable for those who don'ta subtle greasy feeling - most creams no longer have an unwanted oily texture.

???? O ILS
They are an excellent choice for extra dry skin or parts of it, with the negative aspect of the oily feeling balanced by the extra dose of hydration. They are therefore recommended to be applied at night.

???? S PRAYS
Sprays are a great gentle option for applying a moisturizing ingredient, especially when the skin condition is so severe that it is not recommended to introduce the ingredient by spreading or other contact.

???? SOA P REPLACEMENTS
This includes a variety of skin care products that are alternatives to daily care in the form of soaps, which can dry out or worsen the condition of compromised skin.

All of these products are washable, so you can apply them 4-5 times a day and alternate their use to ensure all-day hydration. These are not medicated, such as corticoid ointments, which contain a drug with a specific dosage. In the case of emollients, you don't have to worry about dangerous side effects from an "overdose"  If you inadvertently happen to apply an excessive amount, you simply wash off the product.

The most well-known emollients are:

- shea butter
- Cocoa butter
- Beeswax
- Lanolin
- Squalane - olive or cane
- Nourishing oils - such as olive, almond, coconut, jojoba

In principle, vegetable waxes and other vegetable oils and butters with a high oleic acid content are also an excellent choice. Their moisturizing action is very effective, but due to their high "grease" content, as separate components, they create a heavy and greasy feeling, so the best choice for formulations is to combine them with products that are lighter in form, especially considering your skin type.

All of these ingredients, along with the moisturizers in your formulations, prevent what is called transepidermal water loss, helping to keep your skin hydrated, soft, and glowing.

Article prepared for you by

Martina Oboňová

Any insights and suggestions, please write to us at marketing@handymade.sk.

Source:

https://www.annmariegianni.com/what-is-a-humectant-and-which-natural-ones-to-look-for-in-anti-aging-products/

HUMECTANTS AND EMOLLIENTS - DIFFERENCES AND USES

How can moisturisers and emollients help us achieve this? :-)

However, what happens if regular use pulls water "from below"?

How do you choose the right moisturizer for your formulations?

Synthetic humectants

Natural moisturisers