Vitamins in cosmetics

Vitamins can also be used in cosmetic products.

In winter, our body requires more than ever doses of vitamins, which are not available in natural form as at other times of the year.

VITAMIN C

Vitamin C or also L-ascorbic acid is one of the vitamins that humans cannot synthesize in the body and therefore it is necessary to supply it to the body either in its natural form (fruits and vegetables that contain it) or in the well-known tablet or powder form. In this case, it is nutrition from within. However, vitamin C deficiency also affects our skin, and in the event of a deficiency, it can be supplemented externally in the form of skin nutrition products.

Vitamin C is essential especially in the following layers of the skin:

The epidermis - this is the outer and actually the top layer of our skin - this is where the melanocytes are located, which are responsible for the production of the pigment melanin in our skin.

Dermis - this is the deeper layer of the skin located below the epidermis - this is where the fibroblasts, responsible for the production of collagen, are found.

What can cause vitamin C levels to be lost or reduced in these layers of the skin?

Ageing is a process that none of us can fairly avoid, but it is also up to us whether we accelerate this process by an incorrect lifestyle or slow it down considerably by a correct lifestyle and a more responsible way of living.

Overexposure to UV rays - much has already been written about overexposure toUV rays and its ills. If you don't want to deny yourself the touch of the sun's hot rays and a bronzed look in the summer, at least sufficient UV protection is important.

Excessive exposure to pollutants, to which we mainly assign cigarette smoke and ozone.

So how does vitamin C work in the skin?

As an antioxidant

Free radicals can damage various vital molecules in the body such as proteins, lipids and nucleic acids (such as DNA and RNA). They can enter the skin just through the skin being disturbed by toxins and pollutants, but also when the skin is overexposed to UV rays, where they are also damaged. But they are also produced through our internal metabolism, especially with increasing age, when their production increases while natural defence mechanisms lose their strength.

Vitamin C acts in this way in the body in two ways:

- it scavenges free radicals by supplying the body with electrons that destroy them

- it maintains levels of alpha tocopherol (vitamin E), which acts specifically against free radicals

As a collagen support

Collagen is the protein in our body responsible for beautiful, fresh, elastic and soft skin. Its production decreases with age, resulting in less elastic skin and wrinkles - probably the most common manifestation of ageing skin.

Vitamin C helps to keep collagen molecules "together", which in practice translates into rejuvenated, fresher skin.

As a protection

AlthoughVitamin C cannot be used as a sunscreen, it can help limit the damage to your skin caused by ultraviolet light thanks to the properties mentioned above. Even the most effective combination for such damaged skin areas is a mixture of vitamin C and E.

As a means of depigmentation

The pigment melanin is formed in the epidermis, which causes discoloration of the skin. This manifests itself in the desired state after the tanning process in the form of beautiful bronzed skin. With age, however, so-called age spots are formed on our body, but skin degeneration also manifests itself at a younger age in the form of various pigment spots.

It is topically applied vitamin C that has the cosmetic effect of making the spots disappear and the skin brighter. Thus, it naturally affects the disappearance of hyperpigmented areas, but does not interfere where the skin is normally pigmented (as skin whitening agents would).

How to use/add it to our cosmetic products in practice?

In nature, vitamin C is found only in fruits and vegetables. Cutting up a lemon or red pepper into a cream is probably not the most suitable form, right? Unfortunately, there is no 100% natural form in cosmetics.

The most commonly used in formulations are L-ascorbic acid (LAA) or vitamin C stabilized Ascorbyl palmitate which are chemically and synthetically active forms of vitamin C.

In nature, vitamin C occurs in the same proportions as LAA. Both of these substances have the same molecular formula but have a different chemical structure (for example, the atoms are bonded differently to each other).

L-ascorbic acid is the most potent form of vitamin C on the market that you can use in your products (it is water soluble). However, caution should be taken when using it at home (professionals have it treated in their formulations), as it is very unstable as such and using it incorrectly could cause you more problems than good. It is therefore necessary to use this formulation in combination with vitamin E, which keeps the stability within the norm.

There are other forms of vitamin C on the market - so-called vitamin C derivatives - these are actually added compounds that help prevent vitamin C degradation and are not pH dependent, which is basically their main advantage, as they are less effective nutritionally than L-ascorbic acid alone. You can find them in different forms, for example ascorbyl palmitate or magnesium ascorbyl palmitate.

In our offer you can find vitamin C in powdered but also liquid form.

VITAMIN E

When it comes to vitamins in cosmetics, we certainly can't leave out vitamin E.

This liquid miracle has earned the nickname "skin vitamin" - of all the vitamins, it is the most well-known and used for maintaining skin health and boosting immunity.

We often mistakenly think that it is one particular vitamin, but it is actually made up of a group of several fat-soluble antioxidant vitamins called tocopherols (for reference: naturally occurring vitamin E exists in up to eight chemical forms, namely alpha-, beta-, gamma-, and delta-tocopherol and alpha-, beta-, gamma-, and delta-tocotrienol, but most commercially available E vitamins are not a mixture of all of these forms).

In our offer you can find three types, namely:

70% tocopherol

96% tocopherol

tocopheryl acetate

Since it is found in its natural form in quite a number of foods from which carrier oils can be made, vitamin E can be added to your products in this form as well (since the recommended dosage of concentrated vitamin E is between 0.2% and 3%).

For example, almond, apricot, olive, babassu, flaxseed, wheat germ, and poppy seed oils contain a fair amount of vitamin E.

As well as vitamin C's anti-free radical activity, vitamin E is also effective, but its greatest effect has been shown to be in the construction and regeneration of skin and hair (it has an excellent ability to heal scars, burns and wounds). And as the main fat-soluble antioxidant in the human body, vitamin E is known to nourish the skin and boost immunity.

So where and how to use vitamin E?

Topically as a drug, it is used for nutrition. Its distinctive ability to hydrate and nourish will be especially helpful for soothing sensitive and disturbed skin, which is mostly dry skin affected by itching, peeling, inflammation, blistering, or various degenerative skin conditions such as dermatitis, mild psoriasis, and eczema. Thanks to vitamin E , you can avoid taking aggressive prescription medications to treat various skin conditions. Its effects have also been noted in sunburn or better wound healing and reduced scarring.

In cosmetic formulations, vitamin E's strong moisturizing ability is used (with regular use) specifically to prevent wrinkles (or at least minimize them) or sagging skin, thus promoting a youthful and radiant appearance to your skin. It works best at night, so it's ideal to apply it in a night cream, or if you don't have a vitamin E cream available , simply drip 2-3 drops into the mixture you apply to your skin and that's it.

Taking care of dry skin applies not only to the face, but also to the whole body. Full body rinses are an excellent choice, or you can use the vitamin in a bath.

As well as the skin, vitamin E also works on the hair and scalp. It increases circulation to the scalp, which improves hair strength and overall hair health, making your hair silkier, smoother and shinier, and if you've experienced more significant hair loss, it can help you in that regard too. Again, just drizzle 2-3 drops of vitamin E into the shampoo and apply. Your hair will reward you over time (usually a month to three months) with a healthier appearance. If you want to give your hair even more nourishment, use a vitamin E hair mask once or twice a week.

(Vitamin E is also a very good ingredient in natural makeup removers. We will cover this topic separately.)

- when massaged, it can relieve beautifully, increasing energy and muscle stamina. It has also found application in sports massages, as it promotes the so-called repair of muscles that have been damaged or disturbed by unreasonably strenuous exercise.

- in the production of natural cosmetics, it acts as an antioxidant and prolongs the shelf life of oils.

Please note that in the case of any product containing water, a complex preservative is needed for preservation - we have already covered this topic, read more in the article Preservatives in cosmetics.

If vitamin E hasn't appealed to you yet, we hope that after reading this article you won't hesitate to find a place for this little helper on your cosmetic shelf. And as you can see in the picture, not only on your cosmetic shelf, dear ladies.

GROUP B VITAMINS

Just as it was with vitamin E, which in nature is made up of a group of eight so-called tocopherols, vitamin B is made up of a group of several B vitamins - B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B7, B9 and B12, which work as a complex, but can also be used individually.

For cosmetic purposes, vitamins B3 and B6 are most commonly used.

Vitamin B3

Vitamin B3, which occurs in the form of niacinamide or nicotinic acid, has very similar effects on the skin as vitamin C. It renews the skin, reduces hyperpigmentation, improves the appearance of the skin, whether it is weakened by the aging process or is damaged or reddened and sensitive due to various skin diseases such as acne, mild psoriasis or dermatitis. Niacinamide can also alleviate and to some extent help visibly repair ultraviolet light damage, as well as eliminate the negative effects of various types of air pollutants.

The great advantage of this vitamin over other beneficial and nutritive additives (not just vitamins) is its stability (physical and chemical) to the effects of heat and light.

Note: if you remember, in the post about vitamin C we mentioned that as 100% L-ascorbic acid it is very beneficial for the skin, perhaps the most of all vitamins used in cosmetics, but its stability is "fluctuating" due to external factors, so it is stabilized by the addition of vitamin E. In contrast, vitamin B3 does not need such support.

Is it safe to use both vitamins in one formulation?

In the past, scientific research has indicated some concern about the combined use of vitamin C and B3 in formulations. They were concerned about the very elevated pH - due to L-ascorbic acid, B3 converts to nicotinic acid, which significantly raises the pH in the formulation and can cause reddening of the skin. This is a true fact, but fortunately it only occurs under conditions where the formulation would be exposed to too much heat, even for a long period of time.

Thus, there is nothing to worry about if you find a beauty product or formulation that features a combination of vitamin C and vitamin B3, as they enhance their positive effects under ideal conditions.

Vitamin B6, also called pyridoxine HCl (pyridoxine hydrochloride - it's the hydrochloride salt of vitamin B6), has been given the highly-admired moniker "the vitamin for the nerves" in medical practice, which is a clear indication of what this form of the B vitamins is most important for - metabolism, functional metabolism, proper nervous system and immunity function, and as an aid for exhaustion and fatigue.

In terms of physical and chemical properties, vitamin B6 is water soluble and, like the aforementioned vitamin B3 (niacin amide), is stable in both light and oxygen, and is recommended to be added to formulations at temperatures below 40 ̊C (0.05% to 0.3% is used).

Although all BECs belong to one complex, the effects of individual forms vary. Just as vitamin B3 has similar effects to vitamin C and essentially complements it in its effectiveness in nourishing, elasticity, and reducing skin hyperpigmentation, vitamin B6 has its main function in regulating sebum:

- balances sebum levels

- reduces excessive oiliness

- promotes healthy looking hair

- enhances the effect of anti-dandruff products

So you can use it by adding it to both hair products and cleaning products (baths, soaps, shower gels).

Here is a brief overview of the effects of other forms of B vitamins:

B5, also called panthenol, has excellent moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects on the skin, soothing it and helping to heal minor skin injuries and defects. It also hydrates the hair and scalp and provides moisture.

B7, also called biotin, has also proven itself in the form of nutritional tablets, but also in cosmetic products to strengthen the hair - it improves the quality of keratin structures (excellent for fine and brittle hair).

B9, or also folic acid, generally has the greatest effect in the care of aging skin, it is important in the formation and repair of DNA.

The last two vitamins mentioned are sensitive to oxygen and lose stability under its influence, so it is recommended to store products containing them in airless bottles. Of course, you can't go wrong if you use airless bottles for serums with any vitamins.

VITAMIN A

We close the topic of vitamins with the last of our range, vitamin A.

Vitamin A is produced in the human body by supplementing beta-carotene, a provitamin A, which serves in the body either as a yellow-red dye or as a so-called precursor of vitamin A (the starting substance, the conversion of which produces the final substance) - one molecule of beta-carotene produces two molecules of vitamin A.

Beta-carotene in the human body mainly performs the function of an antioxidant, it also plays an important function for eye health, bone growth and immunity of the body. When it is deficient, the body's overall immunity is reduced.

Interestingly, beta-carotene obtained from animal sources is not water soluble, only fat soluble, and therefore not easily eliminated from the body, it is stored in body fat and can accumulate and become toxic to the body when consumed in excess.

In contrast, beta-carotene obtained from plant sources is water soluble and therefore easily excreted from the body (toxicity due to overdose is very rare in this case).

How to use betacarotene in cosmetics?

In cosmetics and personal care products, betacarotene is mainly used for preparation:

- aftershave lotions

- bath products

- cleansers,

- make-up

- hair conditioners

- shampoos

- skin care products and

- sunscreens.

It also improves the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring skin elasticity.

Synthetically produced betacarotene or natural betacarotene is used in cosmetics. Both are water soluble.

Finally, a little more from the glossary, which may help you to find your way around when studying further information:

Vitamin A exists in two forms: retinoids and carotenoids. Both are converted in the body into retinol - an important component for skin cell formation.

Beta-carotene is a provitamin A, and it is classified in the carotenoid group.

Do you use vitamins in your formulations? Which is your favorite?

Article prepared for you by

Martina Oboňová

Please write to us at marketing@handymade.sk with any of your comments and suggestions .