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Have you heard of body yoghurt? They are light, gel-based emulsions that not only nourish the skin, but also give it the hydration it needs. You'll especially love body yogurts during the summer, as they contain minimal oils and refresh your skin beautifully. Their production is no more complicated than that of a regular body cream.
Body yoghurt is made up of a similar base to a body cream, i.e. a mixture of water and oils, which is bound together with an emulsifier. In addition, however, gel-forming agents are added to body yoghurt, most commonly vegetable gums, which provide the characteristic light and gel-like consistency of the final product.
INGREDIENCE stage %A Demineralised water 77,66B Xanthan gum 0,80B Mica sunset dazzler 0,04B Glycerinen 5,00C Marigold macerate in oil 7,00Cc Cottonseed oil 3,00C C Cetearyl alcohol 1,00C beautyderm K10 4,00D Euxyl PE 9010, preservative 1,00D Tocopheryl acetate 0,50glass crucible, aluminium lid - - - -
1. disinfect all utensils, containers and packaging that come into contact with the product or raw materials, e.g. with ethanol.2. weigh the raw materials from phase B, i.e. xanthan gum, glycerine and mica powder, into a heat-resistant container. Mix well to form a thick slurry without lumps.3. add water to the slurry of phase B raw materials in small amounts, stirring until a gel forms, then cover the container with foil.4. weigh the ingredients from phase C into a second heatproof container, cover the container with clingfilm.5.place the container with the gel and the Phase C raw materials in the water bath and heat until Phase C has melted and both mixtures are approximately the same temperature.6.then, while stirring with a stick blender or milk frother , add the gel to the container of Phase C raw materials in small amounts. Stir vigorously to combine the two phases.7. continue stirring while cooling. When room temperature is reached , add the preservative and tocopheryl acetate, again mixing well.8.if possible, allow the mixture to stand overnight in a container covered with cling film to hydrate any residual xanthan gum. Then mix again and fill into the container.
On the following lines you will find some tips on how to troubleshoot when making this refreshing body yoghurt. When using vegetable gums such as xanthan gum, it is a good idea to hydrate these substances first by mixing them in glycerine. This will reduce the amount of lumps formed by the xanthan gum when water is added and will also reduce the time it takes to hydrate and break down these lumps. It is also a good idea to incorporate powdered colorants such as mica powders into this glycerin mixture. If you were to add them to the finished yoghurt, lumps of unmixed dye may form.If you find that your gel has too many lumps, don't despair, the lumps will naturally disappear after about 24 hours, when the xanthan gum spontaneously hydrates. Stir the product well and allow it to sit once finished to get the final yoghurt consistency.Add the gel to the oil phase (phase C) while still on the water bath so that the emulsifier and cetearyl alcohol do not have time to setto set (as only a small amount of these raw materials are used and they start to solidify immediately after removal from the water bath). Once the gel has been added, stir the mixture well, remove from the water bath, ideally while stirring, and continue adding the rest of the gel.Do not add tocopheryl acetate and preservative until the gel has cooled down, as these are heat sensitive raw materials which would be degraded by heat. At the same time, the total body yoghurt does not like rapid temperature changes either, so try not to leave the product in direct sunlight or in overheated rooms, as the emulsion may separate.
Below you will find basic information about the ingredients used in our body yoghurt. You will also find out more about how to substitute these ingredients, whether they can be omitted or learn about other ways to customise your product.
The basis of most beauty products is water. Demineralised or distilled water is always used in production; ordinary tap water contains minerals that can undermine the stability of the product. If you want to replace distilled water, reach for floral hydrolates, which also give your product a pleasant fragrance. Of course, you can also replace only part of the distilled water with hydrolates or combine several hydrolates.
In order to obtain the gel-like consistency of body yoghurt, it is essential to use a gel-forming agent. In our case, xanthan gum was used because it is easily available and easy to work with, so even beginners can try its use. The advantage of xanthan gum is also its good stability. By changing the proportion, i.e. the amount of xanthan gum in the recipe, you also change the final viscosity of the final product. If you want a firmer and thicker consistency of the body yoghurt, increase the xanthan gumxanthan gum by 0,05 to 0,1 %, using more than 1 % xanthan gum could make the product too thick or even sticky.Conversely, to thin the product, reduce the amount of xanthan gum by 0.1% until you get the desired consistency.Xanthan gum is thus a key ingredient in body yoghurt. You can substitute other vegetable gums and thickeners, but be aware of the change in viscosity and consistency that will occur when using, for example carrageenan(carrageenan at 1 % produces up to a firm jelly, so use a smaller amount or try another vegetable gum).
The delicate pink colour of our body yoghurt is due to the use of a mica powder of a given colour. There is awide variety of colours available when choosing mica powders, so feel free to choose the one you like best. You can also influence the intensity of the colour by the amount of mica powder used. Alternatively, you can omit the mica powder altogether, the body yoghurt will then be white in colour.As an alternative to mica powder, glitter can also be used if you want a glittery body yoghurt. Mix the mica powder or glitter well with glycerine and xanthan gum so that the powder is evenly dispersed in the product and no lumps form.
Vegetable glycerin performs several functions in the body yogurt formula. First of all, it is an effective skin moisturiser, glycerin leaves a soft feeling on the skin, helping to hydrate it and retain water. On the other hand, it also moisturizes other raw materials, such as vegetable gums, and facilitates the dispersion of these substances in the product.If possible, don't leave glycerin out of the product as it will make it easier to work with powdered raw materials. On the other hand, you can play around with the ratio of this substance in the recipe.
A representative of oil-based raw materials is calendula macerate in sunflower oil. By macerating calendula in oil, you can enjoy the benefits of this plant long after it has flowered and transfer the valuable plant substances into cosmetic products. Of course, you can replace the plant macerate in oil with another oil macerate or choose a vegetable oil. You can also increase the proportion of macerate in the recipe if you find the product insufficiently nourishing for the skin. If you want a less oily product, reduce the proportion of calendula macerate in the recipe.
You will appreciate cottonseed oil in a body yogurt recipe if you have dry, cracked or stressed skin. However, this treatment oil is also suitable for other skin types. But do you have another favorite vegetable oil? Feel free to substitute cottonseed oil in the body yogurt recipe. Alternatively, increase the oil representation in the recipe if you feel your skin would appreciate more oil ingredients. Again, the amount of cottonseed oil in the recipe can also be reduced if the oils in the products don't suit you too well. However, don't omit the oil completely as this can compromise the stability of the emulsion.
Alcohols resembling waxes include cetearyl alcohol. Unlike the most well-known alcohol, ethanol, cetearyl alcohol is a solid substance sold in the form of white wax-like granules. It also has similar properties to wax in products - it dissolves only at elevated temperatures, thickening products and giving them a firmer consistency. Unlike genuine waxes, it does not leave an unpleasant waxy film on the skin.Cetearyl alcohol also serves as a co-emulsifier and thus improves the stability of the emulsion. Also for this reason, do not omit it from the recipe. You can replace it with cetyl alcohol with similar properties, for example. Increasing the amount of cetearyl alcohol in the recipe will result in a thicker body yoghurt, while decreasing it will make the product more runny.
The main emulsifier in the body yoghurt recipe is Beautyderm K10. This emulsifier has similar properties to Olivem 1000, so it can also be substituted, but expect a small change in viscosity when these emulsifiers are substituted. The emulsifier is essential for the body yoghurt as we are trying to combine the water and oil ingredients together to create an emulsion. It is through the emulsifier that you can successfully create an emulsion. If you are increasing the oil representation in the recipe by more than 1-2 percent, it is a good idea to increase the amount of emulsifier slightly as well. You can also use the emulsifier to partially influence the consistency, a larger amount of emulsifier will cause the product to thicken.
Since body yoghurt contains water and water-based ingredients, it cannot do without a preservative. In this case, Euxyl PE 9010 was chosen as this preservative works over a wide pH range and is therefore suitable for beginners. Euxyl can be substituted with another broad spectrum preservative, but be careful of the pH at which the preservative is effective. Some preservatives, such as Cosgard, only work in acidic pH, so it is also necessary to adjust the pH of the whole product by adding a lactic or citric acid solution. However, be sure not to skip theaddition of a preservative as the product will quickly succumb to spoilage and could potentially cause problems on your skin due to extensive microbial contamination in the product.
The stabilizer for oils is tocopheryl acetate. What does such a stabilizer do? First of all, tocopheryl acetate ensures that the oils do not oxidize as quickly, which means you can enjoy your product for longer. Tocopheryl acetate thus has antioxidant properties and is also called vitamin E. This substance effectively nourishes the skin and is well soluble in oils. The addition of tocopheryl acetate can be omitted, but in this case the oils in the product may oxidize more quickly. On the other hand, tocopheryl acetate does not replace the preservative, since vitamin E does not affect the stability of aqueous raw materials and water. It can also be replaced by tocopherol 96 %.
As mentioned, you can experiment with homemade recipes to achieve the desired properties. However, many factors such as humidity, temperature, quality of ingredients and storage can affect the final result. Before using any raw material to make a cosmetic product, familiarize yourself with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions or safe handling. Any raw material may have the potential to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, so before using a product, we recommend that you find out if you suffer from an allergy to any of the raw materials or the overall product, e.g. by a skin test. If you have very sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or other skin and health problems, we recommend that you consult a medical professionalbefore applying a new product to your skin, whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
Body yoghurt will be appreciated as a great moisturising product, especially in summer. Have you tried making it with iho?If you have made it and have any questions about the process, ingredients, or would like to add an interesting tip to improve the recipe, feel free to email us at marketing@handymade.skAll sleepers will be delighted.
Thank you to Ivana Jačalová for this great tutorial on making body yogurt.
Until we see you again, stay creative.
Until the saponification, my friends.
