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Looking for an alternative to gels, foams or lotions for cleansing your skin? Would you like a preservative-free product that you can dose as needed and tailor to your exact needs? These are exactly the benefits offered by a powdered skin cleanser. Because it contains no water, there's no need for preservatives, and because this formulation won't leak in your luggage and doesn't count as a liquid - it's perfect for airplane travel.
To make powdered skin cleanser, you need to use a tenside that will gently degrease and cleanse the skin. In this case it is SCI - sodium cocoyl isethionate, which is often used in cosmetic products, returnsit is also used in natural cosmetics because it gently degreases the skin, has a neutral pH and is relatively well tolerated even by sensitive skin.
INGREDIENTS %Rice starch powder 44,600Cosmetic clay, kaolin, white 20,000Jojoba beads for facial peeling 10 ,000SCI - sodium cocoyl isethionate 10,000Ground pumice powder for exfoliation 5,000Hemp oil 5,000Inulin 4,000Xanthan gum 1,000Cedarwood essential oil 0,400
1. disinfect all utensils, containers and packaging you will be working with, for example with ethanol.2. wear a respirator; you will be working with powdered raw materials, and pure SCI is quite irritating to the respiratory tract in its powdered state.3. weigh all the raw materials gradually into a larger container, mixing everything carefully so as not to boil the powder.4. fill into the selected container.
To use powdered skin cleanser, sift a small amount of powder (as needed) onto the palm of your hand or into a small bowl and add a few drops of water or floral hydrolate until the desired consistency is formed. Apply the product to the skin and massage gently, thanks to the peeling particles, dead skin cells will be removed. Afterwards, wash the product off the skin with clean water.When storing, make sure that the container seals well and that no moisture gets into the product. The same applies to the dosage of the product - it is better to siphon off the product so that you do not get water into the powder, for example from wet hands. Otherwise, the product may become mouldy or show other signs of significant microbial infestation.
Below we look at the different raw materials and their importance in a powder skin cleanser. Powder cleanser is great in that you can tailor it to your liking and make a product that fits your skin type exactly.
A raw material that helps to bind excess oil to itself, while being very sensitive to the skin, is rice starch powder. This raw material creates a silky soft feel on the skin when applied, and so is often a sought after ingredient in cosmetics. Rice starch is also very well tolerated by sensitive or baby skin, so you can find this raw material in baby lotions as well.Alternatives to rice starch are other types of starch, for example corn starch is also very popular in cosmetics. Alternatively, try oat starch or oat silk. You can play around with the amount of starch in the recipe if you find the product too intensely degreasing, then you can reduce the amount of SCI tenside and increase the starch content.
Cosmetic clays can supply the necessary minerals to the skin. These are mixtures of minerals extracted specifically for use in cosmetics. It is best to work with clays in dry cosmetic products, as they are easily attacked by microorganisms after contact with water and it is difficult to preserve such products.Kaolin is a clay with a beautiful white color and fine grind, so it is great as a complement to powdered skin cleanser. clays degrease the skin very well, but kaolin is one of the clays that are sensitive to the skin and degrease gently. If you find that a product doesn't degrease enough, try playing around with the type and amount of clay before increasing the tenside content. Try other types of clays that intensely degrease the skin and increase their representation in the recipe for a more intense cleansing effect.
The basic ingredient for a facial scrub is jojoba beads, which have been prepared by hydrogenation from jojoba oil. This makes them biodegradable, they are not microplastics. Choose beads designed for facial exfoliation to avoid unnecessary skin irritation.If you don't want the exfoliating effects of a powdered facial cleanser, simply skip the beads. Or you can play around with their representation to achieve the desired properties. You can also substitute other exfoliating particles for the jojoba beads, or you can use purely ground pumice or strawberry seeds or other exfoliating agents.
SCI is the basic ingredient for cleansing, degreasing and creating foam. This tenside dissolves well in water and is suitable for sensitive skin. However, since in powder form it is quite irritating to the respiratory tract, hemp oil has also been added to the product to weigh down this powder. Nevertheless, it is advisable to only mix the product carefully and avoid over-coiling the powder when dosing.By reducing the amount of SCI, you will achieve a product that will more gently degrease the skin. However, if you want a stronger degreasing effect, first try increasing the amount of ilu and then increase the SCI content, as SCI can be irritating to the skin in high doses.SCI can be replaced by another tenside, but choose powdered tensides that have a neutral or acidic pH in aqueous solution - an alkaline solution will not be very beneficial to the skin. Or you can leave SCI out of the product altogether and replace it with clays that are intensely degreasing, like pink clay, if you only want a mild degreasing effect.
Another exfoliating ingredient in the product is ground pumice powder. Again, this is a natural, biodegradable form of exfoliation. In addition, the pumice powder is quite finely ground and thus provides a gentle exfoliation. Again, you can omit it altogether if you don't want the exfoliating effect, or substitute it with other exfoliating agents, or play around with its representation to make a product exactly to your requirements.
Hemp oil has been chosen to load the SCI powder and reduce its dispersion into the air. Hemp oil is readily available and contains skin care actives in it. Of course, hemp oil is only represented in a small amount, you can increase its content slightly if you feel that it does not load the powder enough. In addition, you can substitute hemp oil for any other vegetable oil you like. It is a good idea not to omit the use of the oil in a recipe, as SCI powder can easily become airborne and irritate the respiratory tract afterwards.
Inulin is a great polysaccharide that is produced by plants such as chicory or similar. In these plants, inulin is a substitute for conventional starch and has many positive properties for humans. In particular, it acts as a fibre and thus has prebiotic effects for beneficial human micro-organisms. And we are not just talking about the digestive tract here. The skin also has its own microbiome, which is why inulin is perfect for skin cosmetics, as it supports the development of the skin's natural microflora. So do not hesitate to add inulin to your cosmetic products as well, it is especially ideal for dry products, as it is a source of energy for bacteria, and so in an aqueous environment (i.e. it can contribute to the development of bacterial contamination.Be sure to store inulin in an airtight container to protect it from moisture, as this powder hardens easily in air.
To improve the stability of the product during application, xanthan gum has been used. The small amount of xanthan gum in the recipe will make the product easier to apply, as when water is added, the product will stick together better and form a more compact mixture that is easier to apply to the skin.Of course, if you don't have xanthan gum on hand, you can omit this ingredient. Or reach for other cold-water-soluble vegetable gums; guar gum or konjac powder are particularly useful.
Cedarwood essential oil has a beautiful woody scent that transports you to the forest for a while. In addition to the additional load of powder with this oil, essential oils delight your senses above all, as they can transform the use of an ordinary product into a perfumed experience.Feel free to substitute cedarwood essential oil with another favorite essential oil, but follow the dosage (IFRA document listed for each essential oil). You can also reach for fragrance oils, which, although synthetically prepared, on the other hand give you a wider range of scents than essential oils. Don't like perfumed products? It's no problem to leave the essential or fragrance oil out of the product and replace it with hemp or other vegetable oil of your choice.
As mentioned, you can experiment with homemade recipes to achieve desired properties. However, many factors such as humidity, temperature, quality of ingredients and storage can affect the final result. Before using any raw material to make a cosmetic product, familiarize yourself with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions or safe handling. Any raw material may have the potential to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, so before using a product, we recommend that you find out if you suffer from an allergy to any of the raw materials or the overall product, e.g. by a skin test. If you have very sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or other skin and health problems, we recommend that you consult a medical professionalbefore applying a new product to your skin, whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
Do you prefer a skin cleanser created with natural ingredients or can you handle cosmetics commonly available in stores? Have you tried creating a powder skin cleanser with us?
Write us your opinions and insights or questions to our email marketing@handymade.skWe will be happy to answer you and learn something new.
Thank you to the lovely Ivana Jačalová for this great tutorial on creating a powder skin cleanser.
Until we see you again for the next tutorial, don't stop creating healing natural miracles.
Do the saponification, my friends.
