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Have you also been thinking about making micellar water, but are put off by the use of often aggressive tensides (cleansing and foaming agents)? We've prepared a version of micellar water containing saponins - natural substances derived from camellia seeds that help remove impurities and gently degrease the skin.
The basis for the production of micellar water is always demineralised water and/or hydrolates in combination with a cleansing agent, in our case saponins. The micellar water has a brown colour because the saponins come from camellia seeds. In the final step, we further adjusted the pH of the product to an acidic pH, so that it is close to the physiological pH of the skin. In addition, the micellar water contains soothing ingredients that help hydrate the skin and reduce redness.
Apply the micellar water on damp skin, it is suitable for removing normal makeup and degreasing the skin. When removing waterproof makeup, it is advisable to first remove some of the makeup with an oil-based makeup remover and then finish cleansing the skin with micellar water. Avoid applying micellar water around the eye area. After applying to the skin , rinse the face with water for better cleansing, the disadvantage of saponins is that without rinsing they can cause mild irritation on the skin of more sensitive individuals.
1. Disinfect all equipment, containers or packaging you will use, for example with ethanol.2. Weigh the raw materials of phase A into the container. Stir well to dissolve the saponins (the mixture may foam when the saponins are added).3. Then check the pH of the mixture, e.g. with indicator papers, and adjust to values between 4,5 and 5,5 using lactic acid. Please note that the amount of lactic acid is only a guide, see Tips and Tricks. Add the acid drop by drop and check the pH continuously.4. After adjusting the pH , mix the preservative thoroughly into the micellar water. Fill into a disinfected bottle.
Making micellar water is really easy, just mix the prepared ingredients, no need to heat the product. The only tricky part is adjusting the pH, so here are a few tips on how to master this step of micellar water preparation.
Adjusting the pH is necessary not only for better tolerance of the micellar water by the skin, but also for the proper effectiveness of the preservative, so don't skip this step. To adjust the pH, add lactic acid drop by drop, stir thoroughly and continuously check the pH until you reach a value between 4.5 and 5.5. The amount of lactic acid given is only a guide, as the actual amount depends on the accuracy of dosage, quality of raw materials and other factors.
Learn more about the individual ingredients and their importance in the micellar lotion instructions below. At the same time, find out more about their substitutions or other options to customize a micellar water just for you.
The basis of most cosmetics is demineralized water, and this ingredient can't be missing in micellar lotion either. Do not substitute demineralised water with filtered or boiled water, as the minerals may not have been completely removed, which can interfere with the effectiveness of the preservative and the stability of the product.
Distilled water or floral hydrolates are possible substitutes. Alternatively, you can try a mixture of different hydrolates or increase the proportion of lavender hydrolates in the recipe. However, be aware that any change in the recipe will also change the amount of lactic acid needed to adjust the pH.
A floral hydrolates with a pleasant floral scent is lavender water or otherwise lavender hydrolates. This hydrolates has a soothing effect on the skin and at the same time the product is gently scented. If you want a more intense lavender scent, you can increase the proportion of hydrolat in the recipe or add 0.1 - 0.2% lavender essential oil (thanks to the saponins, the essential oil disperses well in the product even without the use of an emulsifier or solubilizer).
You can replace the lavender water with other hydrolates or demineralised water.
The basic active and purifying ingredient in micellar water is saponins. Without saponins, you just get a regular skin toner without cleansing and exfoliating effects. Saponins also give the micellar water its brown colour. To increase the degreasing and cleansing effects, increase the dose of saponins by units of percent and vice versa.
Saponins are an alternative to conventional tensides, which can often excessively degrease the skin, many times do not come from plant sources, and can also be contaminated with other chemicals during processing. This is also why many people are increasingly reaching for saponins when looking for alternatives to tensides.
One of the main moisturizing and hydrating agents in a micellar water recipe is glycerin. Glycerin is not a necessary part of micellar water, but it will provide hydration and help moisturize the skin. You can play around with the glycerin content to customize your product. Also, if you don't like glycerin in products, sodium PCA has very similar properties to glycerin when it comes to hydrating and moisturizing the skin.
To moisturize and hydrate the skin, sodium PCA is included in the micellar lotion. This ingredient is not only appreciated as a glycerin substitute, but helps to gently deliver sodium to the skin, thus balancing the mineral content of the skin. However, if you don't have sodium PCA on hand, you can skip it and replace it with glycerin or demineralized water.
Sodium lactic acid is another moisturizing ingredient in micellar lotion. Sodium lactate is worth having on hand not only for its moisturizing effects, but it is also needed to dissolve salicylic acid or to increase the hardness of cold process soaps, so you can also use this ingredient in other cosmetic projects.
However, if you don't have sodium lactate on hand, you can substitute it with demineralised water or other moisturising ingredients in the recipe (glycerine, sodium PCA).
Provitamin B5 is a great supplement for the skin for its soothing and also moisturizing effects. It can bring relief to dry skin and reduce the appearance of dry patches on the skin, also why you will find it as part of many after sun products and for sunburnt skin.
Panthenol is an active ingredient and therefore not important for the cleansing effects of micellar water, so it can also be omitted from the product. However, if you want a product with more intensive treatment properties, do not omit the panthenol. You can, however, reduce or increase its dose as needed (within the recommended dosage).
The raw material used to adjust the pH of the product is lactic acid in the micellar lotion. Do not skip pH adjustment for the reasons already mentioned in the Tips and Tricks section. A substitute for lactic acid is citric acid, but this must be dissolved in demineralised water before use (prepare a 1:1 acid:water solution) and then adjust the pH with this solution. However, you will need a different quantity than for lactic acid.
Euxyl K903 has been chosen as the broad spectrum preservative in this product. Be sure not to leave the preservative out of the product, as micellar water will only last a few days in the refrigerator without preserving due to the high water content. Alternatives to Euxyl K903 are other broad spectrum preservatives. Before using a preservative, check the pH at which it is active (some preservatives are only effective at acidic pH, so add them only after adjusting the pH to that value).
As mentioned, you can experiment with homemade recipes to achieve desired properties. However, many factors such as humidity, temperature, quality of ingredients and storage can affect the final result.
Before using any raw material to make a cosmetic product, familiarize yourself with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions or safe handling. Any raw material may have the potential to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, so before using a product, we recommend that you find out if you suffer from an allergy to any of the raw materials or the overall product, e.g. by a skin test.
If you have very sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or other skin and health problems, we recommend that you consult a medical professional before applying a new product to your skin, whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
