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The nourishing effects of hops have long been sought after, especially in hair cosmetics. We have prepared for you the instructions for a strengthening hair conditioner containing hop CO2 extract. Make a nourishing conditioner that will treat your hair and reduce frizz thanks to its BTMS content.
Cationic tenside has been used for the production of hop conditioner, which is great for hair cosmetics due to this charge. It is BTMS and this substance not only treats the hair, but also thickens the product, so you can create your conditioner in a consistency similar to what you are used to from commercially available products.
Make making hop conditioner easier with our tips and tricks!When heating, it is important that Phase B is fully dissolved, otherwise there will be lumps of undissolved ingredients in the final product. At the same time, before combining phase A and phase B, make sure that they are at almost the same temperature of around 70 °C, otherwise the raw materials may not combine well and the phases will separate.Be sure to cover the containers - this will prevent water loss from phase A or premature water ingress into phase B. If you want to be extra consistent, you can weigh phase A before heating, record this number, and then add the missing evaporated water after heating. However, be aware that many scales are not comfortable if you place hot items directly on top of them, so support the container with a plate or other support when weighing after heating. Also in this case, heat phase A about 5 °C more than phase B so that the temperature of phase A does not drop too low while you weigh and refill the evaporated water. Start mixing while the container is still on the water bath, this will prevent the BTMS from solidifying before it is thoroughly mixed with the other ingredients. As the resulting product has a thicker consistency than a regular cream or body lotion, do not use a milk frother to mix. Traditional flashlight milk frothers do not have the power to combine thicker mixtures such as our Hop Conditioner. Opt for a classic stick blender, a regular blender attachment will suffice.For storage, bottles with a pump are handy so you can dispense the product well. You can also use cups or shampoo bottles, but with cups, the downside is that you are scooping the product with your hands and thus introducing unnecessary contamination into the rest of the product as well.
Below we will look at the different raw materials used for the production of hop conditioner. You will also learn more about their possible substitutes or changes in their representation, so that you can create a tailor-made product.
From the list of raw materials and their percentages, it is already clear that demineralised water is the most dominant raw material in the product. It is demineralised or distilled water that is used in production because this liquid is free of minerals, so these substances will not interfere with the stability of the product or the effectiveness of the active ingredients.However, demineralised water is not the only raw material you can use. There is a wide range of hydrolates or floral waters that have also been distilled and so do not contain minerals, but instead contain volatile substances from the plants from whose water mixtures they have been distilled. As a result, they bring nourishing substances and also a natural fragrance to the products.Try replacing part or all of the demineralised water with your favourite hydrolates, or combine several hydrolates according to your preference.
The main moisturizing agent for conditioner is glycerin. It is a common ingredient in many cosmetic products. Glycerin is a translucent liquid with a syrupy consistency that dissolves well in water and can handle heating. It can be omitted from the recipe and replaced with water, but you will lose its nourishing and moisturizing properties.
BTMS is one of the most widely used conditioners in hair cosmetics. This substance is sold in the form of white pellets or flakes of a waxy nature and dissolves when heated, similar to conventional waxes or vegetable butters.In addition to its conditioning properties, BTMS has a positive charge - it is a cationic conditioner and so helps to neutralize the negative charge present on the hair, thus reducing frizz. It is also an emulsifier and thickener and therefore allows the water and oil ingredients to be combined together and is primarily responsible for the resulting consistency.Increasing the BTMS content in a recipe at the expense of water will result in an even thicker and denser product, conversely, decreasing the BTMS content will result in a more fluid product. If you increase the BTMS content too much, you can end up with an overly stiff mixture - this is also why BTMS is the basis of solid conditioners.
The substitute for oils and vegetable butters in this recipe is the vegetable petroleum jelly Vegeline. Its advantage is that it already directly combines vegetable oils and waxes and can thus be used as a full replacement for these raw materials. In addition, the thick consistency of this vegetable petroleum jelly also contributes to the overall viscosity of the product, so any change in the Vegeline representation will result in a change in the consistency of the product (but to a lesser extent than in the case of BTMS).If you feel that the hop conditioner is not nourishing enough and your hair is still dry, increase the Vegeline content in the recipe. Conversely, if you want a less greasy product, take about 1% off the Vegeline content.Vegeline can, of course, be replaced by vegetable oils and butters, but again, expect a change in consistency. However, there is no need to worry about this vegetable petroleum jelly; unlike conventional petroleum jelly, it is purely vegetable in origin and does not contain paraffin, mineral oils and other petroleum-derived ingredients.
Our hair is largely made up of keratin, which is why it is advisable to occasionally replenish this substance in the form of conditioners or hair masks. Keratin is a brownish liquid with a characteristic smell that usually does not interfere with the overall scent of the product, since keratin is used in relatively low doses. It is a substance of a protein nature that can strengthen the hair and provide it with the necessary nutrition. Keratin can be omitted from the recipe and substituted with water or other active ingredients intended for hair products (check beforehand that the ingredient is compatible with the other ingredients, especially in terms of pH and charge).
SupercriticalCO2 extraction is a new method for extracting non-polar substances (especially oily substances) from plant materials. It is a very gentle method to the active substances, therefore these extracts are very effective already in small doses and retain many properties of the original plant.HopsCO2 extract is a dark green thick liquid which, due to its colour, gives the product a slightly green tinge, making additional colouring agents unnecessary. At the same time, this extract also has a characteristic slightly bitter herbal aroma. This scent can be covered with essential or fragrance oils if you wish and the hoppy scent does not suit you.The CO2 extract can be omitted from the product or replaced with anotherCO2 extract, but in this way you will lose all the active ingredients that hops could provide to your hair.
The preservative is the basis for the hop conditioner as more than 80% of its content is water, which can cause the product to be attacked by microorganisms such as bacteria or moulds. Thanks to the use of a preservative you can enjoy your product for more than a few days, as would be the case with an unpreserved product.Euxyl PE 9010 is great in that it is active over a wide pH range, making it suitable for beginners. You can replace it with another broad spectrum preservative. However, be aware that some preservatives are only effective in a specific pH range, for example Cosgard works best below pH 5.5, so you will probably need to adjust the pH of the final product.Since we have not lowered the pH of our product, we cannot guarantee the stability of the emulsion even at pH below 5.5.
As mentioned, you can experiment with homemade recipes to achieve the desired properties. However, many factors such as humidity, temperature, quality of ingredients or storage can affect the final result. Before using any raw material to make a cosmetic product, familiarize yourself with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions or safe handling. Any raw material may have the potential to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, so before using a product, we recommend that you find out if you suffer from an allergy to any of the raw materials or the overall product, e.g. by a skin test. If you have very sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or other skin and health problems, we recommend that you consult a medical professional before applying a new product to your skin, whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
The instructions for creating a hop hair conditioner have been prepared for you by Ivana Jačalová. We thank her very much for the extensive tutorials she always prepares for us.
If you have any questions or advice or experience that would help others in creating a hop conditioner, be sure to email us at marketing@handymade.sk and we will be happy to answer and add knowledge to the tutorial.
Stay creative until we meet again for a new article or tutorial.
Until the saponification, my friends.
