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Cleansing lotions are great for cleansing your skin and getting rid of excess sebum. You'll also appreciate our facial lotion after removing waterproof makeup to remove residue and even oiliness after using oil-based makeup remover products. Simply apply the lotion to wet skin and then rinse thoroughly with water. This is a rinse-off product and should not be left on the skin without rinsing.
To prepare a cleansing lotion, you need to make a basic emulsion of water and oil. The complementary ingredients are tensides - degreasing and foaming agents that help to cleanse the skin and rid it of excess oil. Since combining an emulsion with tensides isn't always the most stable, we used four different preservatives to preserve this product to see which would do the best job.
Phase INGREDIENCE %A Demineralised water 43,03A Hamamel hydrolate 15,00B Glycerine 8,00B Mica powder, Bonny Buttercup 0,05B Xanthan gum 0,90C Olivem 1000 3,00C Almond oil 8,00D proteol Apple 10,00D Coco glucoside 10,00D eucalyptus radiata essential oil 0,12E preservative 1,00E lactic acid 0,90plastic bottle with pump ---
1. disinfect all utensils, containers and packaging you will use, for example with ethanol.2. weigh the glycerine, xanthan gum and mica powder (phase B) into a heat-resistant container. Mix well to a thick, lump-free slurry and set aside.3. weigh the phase A ingredients into another container. Mix and pour the phase A into the container with phase B. Stir well (a gel will start to form) and cover with cling film.4. weigh the phase C raw materials into a heat-resistant container. Cover with foil.5.place both containers covered with foil on the water bath. Heat until phase C is completely dissolved and both mixtures are at approximately the same temperature (70 °C).6.then, still on the water bath, pour the aqueous phase into the container with phase C. Mix thoroughly, e.g. with a silicone spatula, and then stir with a stick blender until the two phases are well combined.7.as soon as the temperature drops below 40 °C, add phase D (mixture of tensides and essential oil mixed therein). Mix again with a stick blender (beware that the mixture may foam).8.finally, check the pH of the mixture with indicator papers and, if it is too high, adjust it by adding lactic acid drop by drop to a value between 4,5 and 5,5. Please note that the amount of lactic acid is only a guide!9. add the selected preservative (except Spectrastat G2, this must be heated to 45 °C and added to the mixture at the same temperature, see Tips and Tricks), mix well and fill into the selected container.
Below we bring you some tips and tricks to make it easier for you to make cleansing lotion. Learn about proper pH adjustment and much more.When working with xanthan gum, it's a good idea to mix it in glycerin first, similar to mica powder, to prevent lumps of these unmixed powdered ingredients from forming. Thanks to the xanthan gum, the product will have a light, gel-milk consistency, and at the same time this substance promotes the stability of the resulting emulsion.When adjusting the pH, it is always necessary to proceed slowly and add the lactic acid drop by drop, as the amount indicated is only a guide. The amount of lactic acid depends on many factors such as weighing and dosage accuracy, quality of raw materials, etc. After each addition of lactic acid, stir the mixture thoroughly and check the pH until it reaches a value between 4.5-5.5. it is a good idea to adjust the pH even if you are using the preservatives Euxyl PE 9010 or Spectrastat G2 (these preservatives are also active outside of acidic pH), as the skin tolerates better products whose pH is slightly acidic and close to the physiological pH of the skin.If you choose to preserve with Cosgard, Euxyl K903 or Euxyl PE 9010, add the preservative only after the final pH adjustment to the cooled product. These preservatives are sensitive to higher temperatures. In contrast, Spectrastat G2 must be heated to about 45°C before use before adding to the emulsion. Ideally when the product is at the same temperature (45 °C). In this case, the pH adjustment can be carried out even after the addition of the preservative, as this preservative is effective over a wide pH range.The mixture is relatively viscous and may have a slightly fluffy/whipped consistency when mixed with a stick blender. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a cup or pump bottle with a wider neck as a container to make it easier to fill the product into the container.
The following lines will introduce you to the different raw materials used for the production of cleansing lotion. You will learn more about their possible confusions or ways to customize your product.
The basis of emulsions in cosmetics is usually demineralised or distilled water. Do not use regular tap water, even after boiling or filtering - the minerals in it can interfere with the stability of the emulsion or the action of the preservative.The water in a cleansing lotion can be replaced with floral hydrolates that have undergone distillation and so do not contain minerals. It is thanks to the hydrolates that the products can also acquire a pleasant floral fragrance, and so no further perfuming is necessary.
A great addition to skin cleansing milks are hydrolates. Not only do hydrolats give the product a subtle scent, they also help to soothe the skin and combat redness. This is why hammamel hydrolat is an excellent ingredient for cleansing lotions.Hammamel hydrolate can also be substituted with other hydrolates or demineralised water. however, be aware that any substitution in the recipe will also result in a change in pH and thus the amount of lactic acid needed to adjust the pH.
To moisturize and soften the skin, it's a good idea to have glycerin in your cleansing lotion. This ingredient not only moisturizes the skin, but helps speed up the gel formation and shortens the time to thoroughly mix the xanthan gum and mica powder. Also for this reason, it's a good idea not to leave glycerin out of the mix. If you must do so, you can get similar moisturizing properties when using Sodium PCA.
For colouring the final product, there is nothing easier than to choose mica powder. Mica powders are available in a wide range of colours, so there really is something for everyone. You can combine them with each other or add fine glitters or two-colour pigments (the heavier glitters may sit on the bottom). Of course, it is also possible to omit the mica powders altogether, the product will have a white, milky colour.
Xanthan gum is used in this product to thicken and stabilize the final emulsion. This substance forms thick gels with water already at low concentrations. You can therefore also vary the resulting viscosity of the product by changing the dosage. If you want a more fluid product, reduce the xanthan gum content by 0,1-0,2 %. For better thickening, you can increase the content to a maximum of 1 %, after which the mixture is too stiff to be applied comfortably.Be sure not to omit the xanthan gum, without it the product will not have the desired consistency and phase stability problems could occur. A possible alternative is guar gum, but it thickens slightly less than xanthan gum, so you may have to use a little more of it to get the same viscosity. At the same time, we haven't tested the stability of the cleansing lotion with guar gum, so we can't guarantee that the emulsion won't break down.
An emulsifier is required to create the emulsion. In our case, Olivem 1000 was chosen because of its ease of use and good compatibility with a wider range of substances. Be sure not to omit the emulsifier, the phases will not combine. If you have a problem with the stability of the product, increase the emulsifier by 0.5-1%. Conversely, a lower proportion of Olivem 1000 will make the product more fluid (however, reduce the proportion of Olivem 1000 only after you have reduced the xanthan gum content and still have not achieved the desired result).An alternative to Olivem 1000 is Beautyderm K10.
To alleviate the feeling of heavy oiling after cleansing, almond oil has been added to the lotion. This oil is affordable and well absorbed by the skin. Plus, it doesn't have a distinct color or scent that would interfere with the final product. You may choose another liquid vegetable oil or a combination of the two to replace this ingredient. By increasing the proportion of oil, you will achieve a lotion that is less degreasing and more nourishing and moisturising to the skin.
Tensides must be added to the product to degrease and cleanse the skin. It is ideal to work with liquid tensides, as you want to avoid dissolving them in water for a long time. A great option is to combine decyl glucoside, which gently degreases and forms a rich lather, with Proteol apple, which also degreases the skin but forms a slightly creamier, less pronounced lather.It is ideal not to confuse tensides, but if you must do so, make sure you don't combine tensides of opposite charge (cationic with anionic) as this will result in a precipitate. Also, observe the dosage specified for each raw material, too high a resulting concentration of active laflux in the tensides (tensides are not sold as 100% solutions, but slightly diluted) can cause skin irritation when over-diluted.If you use glucosides with an alkaline pH, always check the pH of the final product and adjust it to the acidic range (range 4.5 to 5.5).
Eucalyptus radiata is the essential oil that brings the fresh scent. Of course, you can also choose another essential oil for the product. However, before using it, check the dosage in your facial rinse products, for example according to the IFRA standards listed with the product.As an alternative to essential oils, fragrance oils offer an even broadera wider range of scents than essential oils, as your product may smell of many fruits. Again, observe the dosage. For making an unscented product, simply omit the addition of essential oil.
Lactic acid was chosen to adjust the pH. This is an acid already sold in solution form, so you do not have to prepare the solution yourself. An alternative is citric acid, but this must first be dissolved in water, for example, to make a 50% citric acid solution, which you then use to adjust the pH. For instructions on how to adjust the pH correctly, see the workflow and the Tips and Tricks section.
As some preservatives also tend to disturb the stability of the emulsion under certain conditions, especially when oil in water is added to a conventional emulsiontensides, we prepared four batches of cleansing lotion, each differing only in the type of preservative used. Immediately after preparation and during the first week, we did not observe any phase separation with any of the preservatives used. The increased stability is likely due to the higher xanthan gum content, which helps not only to thicken but also to hold the emulsion ingredients together. After a month, the phases were still connected for all preservatives, but we did observe a slight settling of the Cosgard-containing cleansing lotion and Euxyl PE 9010 in the(some of the fluffy/whipped consistency obtained by mixing with a stick blender was lost, but this does not detract from the functionality of the product).
As mentioned, you can experiment with homemade recipes to achieve the desired properties. However, many factors such as humidity, temperature, quality of ingredients and storage can affect the final result. Before using any raw material to make a cosmetic product, familiarize yourself with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions or safe handling. Any raw material may have the potential to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, so before using a product, we recommend that you find out if you suffer from an allergy to any of the raw materials or the overall product, e.g. by a skin test. If you have very sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or other skin and health problems, we recommend that you consult a medical professionalbefore applying a new product to your skin, whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
After removing makeup, it is also necessary to cleanse the skin of any impurities from the skin that have settled on the skin during the day. They could clog your pores and become inflamed. Therefore, use our cleansing lotion after makeup removal and treat your skin to basic care.If you have any questions, please contact us and email us at marketing@handymade.skThank you to the great Ivana Jačalová for this comprehensive post with instructions and necessary tips.
Until we see you again for the next tutorial, have a creative day.Until the saponification, my friends.
